Learn About the Diamond Shapes

The round brilliant is the undisputed king of diamond shapes. It accounts for roughly one-third of all engagement ring diamonds sold and for good reason. With 57 or 58 precisely angled facets, it's engineered to return more light to your eye than any other shape. Maximum brilliance. Maximum fire. Maximum scintillation.

Here's something most buyers don't know: the round brilliant is the only diamond shape that receives a formal cut grade from GIA or IGI rated from Excellent down to Poor. Every other shape? You're evaluating cut quality on your own (or trusting your jeweler). That cut grade makes round brilliants the easiest shape to shop with confidence.

The tradeoff? Price. Round brilliants are the most expensive diamond shape per carat in mined diamonds. The reason is waste: cutting a round from a rough crystal burns through roughly 60% of the material. More waste means higher cost passed on to you.

This is exactly where lab grown changes the math. That premium you'd pay for a mined round brilliant? It shrinks dramatically with lab-grown. Same 58 facets, same sparkle, same IGI-certified grades without the inflated price tag.

The versatility of the round brilliant makes it a perfect match for any setting style. A classic solitaire keeps the focus entirely on the stone’s fire and symmetry. If you want to increase the visual footprint, a halo setting surrounds the center stone with smaller diamonds for massive impact. For extra shimmer, a pavé band adds a continuous line of light that complements the round’s natural brilliance.

The princess cut diamond is sharp, modern, and unapologetically geometric. Square shape, brilliant-cut faceting so you get strong sparkle with a cleaner, more structured look than round.

It’s the second most popular engagement ring shape after round. For buyers who want brilliance without going traditional, this is usually where they land.

Performance-wise, it holds its own. The pointed facet pattern creates excellent light return, giving you that bright, lively look across the surface. Not quite round-level fire, but close enough that most eyes won’t notice the difference.

Now the non-negotiable: corner protection. Those four sharp corners are vulnerable to chipping. Always set a princess cut with V-prongs or a bezel that covers the corners. Exposed corners are a risk, especially for everyday wear.

Best settings lean modern. A clean solitaire with V-prongs keeps the shape front and center. Channel settings work well for a structured, seamless look. You’ll also see princess cuts used in tension-style designs for a more contemporary feel.

The emerald cut diamond is all about precision. Clean lines, long facets, and that signature “hall of mirrors” effect. Instead of sparkle, you get broad flashes of light and dark that move slowly across the stone.

This is a step-cut, not a brilliant cut. So don’t expect intense fire. The beauty here is clarity and structure. It’s sharp, architectural, and quietly confident.

That openness comes with a catch. Large, flat facets act like windows everything shows. Inclusions, color, even slight cutting issues. If you want it to look crisp, stay in the VS2 clarity range or higher and G color or above. Drop below that, and imperfections become visible fast.

The shape itself was originally developed for emerald gemstones, where cutters needed to protect the stone from pressure. Diamonds adopted it later for its sleek, geometric look especially during the Art Deco era. Styling is where emerald cuts shine.

Style-wise, the emerald cut is an Art Deco icon. It pairs beautifully with geometric settings, baguette side stones, and minimalist metalwork.

The marquise diamond is built for impact. Long, narrow, and pointed at both ends think an eye or a football shape. It also gives you the largest face-up size per carat of any diamond shape. Same weight, bigger visual footprint.

There’s history here too. Legend traces the shape back to King Louis XV, who commissioned a diamond to resemble the lips of the Marquise de Pompadour. Dramatic origin, fitting for a dramatic shape.

Under the hood, it uses brilliant-cut faceting, so you still get strong sparkle. But like oval and pear, you need to watch for the bowtie effect a dark shadow across the center.

And those tips? Both ends are vulnerable. Always go with V-prongs to protect them. No exceptions. Visually, marquise is unmatched for finger coverage. It creates a strong elongating effect, making fingers look longer and more slender than any other shape.

Styling stays flexible. A clean solitaire keeps it bold and classic. A halo amplifies size even further. Vintage settings suit its history, while three-stone designs with pear or round sides add balance.

The Asscher cut diamond is symmetry at its finest. A square step cut with a higher crown and smaller table than emerald, it adds a bit more light return while keeping that signature “hall of mirrors” effect.

It was created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, from the same family that famously cut the 3,106-carat Cullinan Diamond. The design became a defining look of the Art Deco era bold, geometric, and precise.

Like all step cuts, it’s unforgiving. Large, open facets mean clarity and color are fully exposed. To keep it looking crisp, stay at VS2 clarity or higher and G color or above. Go lower, and inclusions or warmth become visible fast.

Styling leans clean and structured. A solitaire with minimal metal lets the geometry stand out. Art Deco settings enhance its vintage roots. A bezel setting adds both protection and a sleek frame around the stone.

Lab-grown Asscher cuts are harder to find in the market. When done right, they combine that vintage precision with modern value cleaner stones, better pricing, and the same unmistakable look.